My first visit to Bolivia, March 1997
Osvaldo had told me that he grew up in a favela, but I didn't really believe him until I saw the house where he spent the first 25 years of his life. To me it looked like someone just began to build it, but it had looked like that for 30 years. It was quite big and has electricity and a tap with cold water outside the bathroom. It didn't have any heating, though, so I was constantly freezing. Osvaldo's house in La Paz
Osvaldo preparing breakfast in the kitchen Here is Osvaldo preparing breakfast for me in the kitchen. It did have an ancient gas stove, but it required some practice to be able to cook a meal in there. Osvaldo took very good care of me because I was three months pregnant and the altitude (4000 meters) and cool climate didn't make it more pleasant. In addition he wanted to give me a good impression of Bolivia, since this is where we are going to live in the long run.

There is quite big inequality in Bolivia. We visited several of Osvaldo's friends from the University, and some of them lived in brand new, extravagant penthouse apartments, that could easily make me envious.

For Osvaldo's Birthday party, we borrowed the house and kitchen of one of Osvaldo's best friends. Here is Federico and Osvaldo with the appetizers. Federico and Osvaldo preparing birthday dinner
Federico and his wife also took us for a nice trip to Titicaca Lake. It is amazing that such a big lake can stay up there in the mountains at 4000 meters altitude without running down. Here is Osvaldo and two llamas on a small island in the lake. Osvaldo and two llamas on island in Titicaca Lake
Osvaldo's family has a road side restaurant in a small village at the Altiplano. Here is Osvaldo's father and his new wife preparing a traditional Tiahua dinner cooked by hot stones buried in the ground.

First, some flat stones were heated thoroughly in a fire on the ground. Then the stones were removed, and meat, potatoes, corn cakes, bananas, peas, etc. were mixed with the hot stones and piled up at the fire place.

Then everything was covered with leaves and sand and let to cook in the ground for about an hour.

Here is Osvaldo's half brother, nephew, and father making sure that it is properly covered so that the heat doesn't escape.

After an hour, everything was dug up and ready to eat. It tasted absolutely deliciously, and had it not been so cold, we would have eaten the food right from the fire place. Instead we quickly collected everything and brought it inside.

Osvaldo's father and his wife preparing Tiahua

Tiahua dinner cooking in the ground

Tiahua dinner being dug up